The constant columnist of the magazine Tatler, the owner of the “Nezavisimaya Gazeta”, the most independent gastronomic critic of Moscow, now leads the section also on the site. Reviews of restaurants are required to read every week
This project has a history. Three years ago in St. Petersburg, in the industrial zone on the Petrograd side, an institution with this name was opened. And so it was pleasant, so people have fallen, literally from all country, that around all cluster of entertaining establishments has grown. Owners were inspired and opened in Moscow at first the meat restaurant Max’s Beef for Money, and now Big Wine Freaks Moscow. It’s a wine bar with food, but it’s cult, as it has its own flock, adorers. They are united at least by the fact that they do not irritate such names, but please them. It happens, not scary. There are worse names. But we must honestly admit that the “Fricky” is made somehow especially, according to internal rules, which we do not know, but we feel. As if all the creators of the project speak a special language, for example Danish. And we, the consumers, if such a thing, Danish, in the depths of our hearts we love – we pull ourselves up.
In any case, the room that Moscow Fricky built is so beautiful that it’s worth going to find out: yours is – or not yours. The corner of the house is always at the “jammed” intersection of Kudrinskaya Square. A high ground floor, and in large windows, a traffic jam sails under your feet while you drink organic orange wine, the most fashionable one to date. In the menu it is called “Pantyhose” and costs 520 rubles. for a glass. The wine is slightly cloudy, very dry and to taste resembles a mixture of different brines (cabbage and cucumber) with good mineral water. If you liked it, then you are a great gourmet, for it is really quite a thin natural thing.
Food – wine snacks, in the St. Petersburg style called “Butera”, “rap” and so on. I can recommend only two positions: these same “rap” – dense, generously stuffed with high-quality fillings, Nem-kones, the best of them – with crab and avocado for 600 rubles. And dim-samy, folded in a slicker for 350 rubles per serving. The other dishes will not be damaged by the revision based on the results of the first month of work, in my opinion they are all fluid. Including in the direct sense – a good taste of eggplant or water-melon with greens are served as a smear, though on very beautiful plates. The people are still a little, the music is excellent. For today this is an exceptionally decent place. Irreproachably stylish and adult. But there are rumors that neighboring Siberia will close soon. And suddenly all the people there, “removable”, will be dragged to Fricky. It will be interesting to see who wins.
Bolshaya Nikitskaya, 62/3. Tel. 495 968 30 60
Editor’s choice: three more wine bars with atmosphere
In all four vinothecs in the evenings a table can not be found. The wine list of the most cozy of bars (on Nikitsky Boulevard) is relatively small (300 positions), but each wine is special. At Komsomolsky are proud of a hundred shades of white Chardonnay and there are wonderful mussels that are recommended to order with a glass of Pouilly-Fumé, and in the tapas bar on Garden Eclairs are filled with salmon mousse, chicken liver paste and tobiko caviar.
Bolshaya Sadovaya, 1
In the institution of the charismatic wine critic Igor Zibrak, the dishes are most likely chosen for wine, and not vice versa. Moreover, you have to choose from 800 labels (for each collection you can find an alternative cheaper). To order wine is taken by bottles – positions on glasses in the menu are almost none. Tasting the host now spends on Thursdays.
Leninsky prospect, 15
Grand cru by Adrian Quetglas
Analogues of the wine bar with a ten-year history are still not there. From 1500 kinds of assortment Simple Wine 1200 is bottled. In the seasonal set of Adrian Ketglas six courses – you can safely divide in half.
Malaya Bronnaya, 22